Beat Expansive Soils With Smart Drainage

If you live in Lone Tree, you know our clay-rich ground can shift with every wet spring and dry spell. That movement can nudge foundations, crack slabs, and warp doors, especially when water collects near your home. The good news: smart drainage keeps moisture stable and protects your investment. In this guide, you’ll learn the local basics of expansive soils, the code-backed fixes that work, and a simple checklist you can use today. Let’s dive in.

Expansive soils in Lone Tree: the basics

Expansive soils contain clays that swell when wet and shrink when dry. In Colorado, that change can create large forces that crack foundations and slabs. The Colorado Geological Survey explains how common and powerful these soils can be across the state. You can get a clear overview in their resource on expansive soil and rock.

Much of the Front Range has moderate to high shrink-swell potential, and Lone Tree is no exception. State hazard guidance notes that many populated areas on the plains require extra care with grading and drainage. For a broader context, see the state’s summary of soil hazards.

Local climate plays a role. The Denver metro’s semi-arid pattern brings most precipitation in spring and summer, followed by drying periods and freeze-thaw cycles. Those swings drive the expansion and shrinkage you want to control, as shown in regional climate normals near Lone Tree from Thornton Weather.

How to check your lot

Start with a parcel-level look at soils using the NRCS Web Soil Survey. It helps you identify likely clay content before you plan major landscaping or renovation. Explore the NRCS overview for soil survey tools.

Drainage first: keep moisture stable

Your goal is simple: direct water away from the foundation and keep moisture conditions steady. In clay, preventing sudden wetting near the house is usually the most cost-effective protection.

Grade to code

Final grade should slope away from the home at least 6 inches within the first 10 feet, or about 5 percent. If you cannot achieve that, use swales or drains to carry water away. See the Building America guide to final grading that slopes away from foundations.

Control roof runoff

Gutters and downspouts are nonnegotiable. Extend discharge at least 5 feet from the foundation, and 10 feet if you are tying into a drywell or catchment. Ensure discharge points slope away so water never flows back. Review best practices for gutters and downspouts.

Know local rules

Lone Tree and Douglas County have adopted modern building codes and require inspections that can affect grading and drainage installations. Before you regrade or add permanent drains, check local guidance at the City of Lone Tree design criteria and codes and the Douglas County Building Division adopted codes.

Practical fixes that work in clay

• Regrade low areas

  • Effect: Prevents ponding near the foundation and reduces infiltration into clay backfill.
  • Use when: Yard slope is flat or directs water toward the house. Aim for the 6 inches in 10 feet target.

• Gutters, downspouts, and extensions

  • Effect: Captures roof water so it never soaks foundation soils.
  • Use when: Every home with a roof. Clean seasonally and extend discharge 5 to 10 feet on a slope away from the house.

• French drains or perimeter drains

  • Effect: Collects shallow subsurface water that would otherwise load the foundation zone.
  • Use when: Grading alone cannot control pooling or you have low spots near the home.

• Drywells and catchment systems

  • Effect: Adds storage or dispersion where daylighting runoff is not feasible.
  • Use when: Lot constraints limit surface routing. Place at least 10 feet from the foundation and include overflow paths.

• Sump pumps and interior drainage

  • Effect: Removes water that enters basements or crawlspaces.
  • Use when: You have documented water intrusion or hydrostatic pressure. Pair with exterior waterproofing when possible.

• Irrigation and landscaping adjustments

  • Effect: Reduces frequent wetting cycles that trigger swelling near the foundation.
  • Use when: Sprinklers hit the house or beds need regular watering at the wall. Move or convert heads, set drip lines away from the foundation, and choose lower-water plants. See Colorado-specific advice in CSU’s resource on expansive soils and landscaping.

• Swales, piping, and retaining features

  • Effect: Routes surface flow to safe outfalls instead of letting water pond by the house.
  • Use when: Lot geometry or neighboring elevations push water toward your foundation.

• Engineered foundations and soils work

  • Effect: For new builds or major additions, geotechnical recommendations like deeper footings, piers, or soil replacement limit movement.
  • Use when: Testing shows high swell potential or you are planning significant construction.

Spot problems early

• New or widening stair-step cracks in exterior masonry, especially near corners.
• Interior wall cracks, doors or windows that bind or suddenly go out of alignment.
• Uneven floors, slab cracks, or gaps between a slab and the wall.
• Persistent wet spots or mildew in basements or crawlspaces after storms, or soil that is sticky when wet and hard when dry.

A quick homeowner checklist

1. Check grading and fill low spots so the ground falls 6 inches in the first 10 feet away from the house.
2. Clean gutters, repair leaks, and extend downspouts 5 to 10 feet to a point that slopes away.
3. Move spray irrigation off the foundation zone, convert to drip as needed, and avoid high-water beds against the wall.
4. If you see structural signs, schedule a structural inspection and a geotechnical evaluation before major work or purchase decisions.
5. For regrading, new drains, or foundation changes, confirm permit and inspection needs with Lone Tree or Douglas County.

Planning a purchase or renovation?

Before you commit, pull the NRCS soil map for the parcel and look for clay-rich units. If a property shows signs of movement or sits in a mapped shrink-swell area, commission a geotechnical report before finalizing plans. Local codes and lenders may require soils documentation for substantial work, and the right data will lead to practical, cost-effective solutions.

Ready to protect your equity or prep your home for market with confidence? Reach out to Mitchel Bohi for a clear plan, local vendor connections, and smart next steps tailored to Lone Tree.

FAQs

What are expansive soils and why do they matter in Lone Tree?

• Expansive soils contain clays that swell when wet and shrink when dry, which can stress foundations; they are common along Colorado’s Front Range, so moisture control near your home is essential.

How much slope should my yard have away from the foundation?

• Aim for at least a 6-inch drop within the first 10 feet from the house, or about a 5 percent slope; use swales or drains if you cannot achieve this grade.

How far should downspouts discharge from the house?

• Direct roof runoff at least 5 feet away, and 10 feet if connecting to drywells or catchment systems; make sure the discharge point slopes away from the foundation.

Can irrigation near the house cause foundation problems in clay soils?

• Yes, frequent wetting at the foundation zone can trigger swelling; relocate spray heads, use drip set back from the wall, and choose lower-water plants.

How can I check my property’s soil type before buying or renovating?

• Use the NRCS Web Soil Survey for parcel-level soil mapping, then consult a geotechnical engineer if clay-rich units or prior movement are suspected.

Do I need a permit to regrade or add drains in Lone Tree or Douglas County?

• Many grading and drainage changes require review or permits; confirm requirements with the City of Lone Tree or Douglas County before starting work.